Picking out a can am wheel spacer is usually the first thing people do when they realize their Maverick or Outlander looks a bit too "skinny" from the factory. Whether you're trying to stop your machine from feeling tippy in the corners or you just bought a set of massive tires that are currently rubbing against your shocks, spacers are the go-to fix. They aren't just about looks, though that "mean" stance is definitely a nice bonus. It's about how the machine handles the dirt, the mud, and the off-camber sections where things can get a little sketchy.
Why Most Riders End Up Getting Spacers
If you've spent any time on the trails, you know the feeling of taking a corner a bit too fast and feeling that inside wheel lift just a tiny bit. It's enough to make your heart jump. Adding a can am wheel spacer to each hub widens your overall track width, which effectively lowers your center of gravity relative to the width of the machine. It makes the whole rig feel more planted. Instead of feeling like you're sitting on top of a tall, narrow box, you feel like you're locked into the terrain.
Then there's the practical side of things: clearance. We all want bigger tires. It's almost a rule of thumb that as soon as the stock rubber wears down, something more aggressive is going on those rims. But when you go wider or taller, you often run into clearance issues with the tie rods, control arms, or the inner wheel wells. A set of spacers pushes the wheels out just enough to give those big lugs the room they need to breathe without chewing up your expensive suspension components.
Picking the Right Size for Your Ride
One of the biggest mistakes people make is thinking that bigger is always better. You'll see guys running 2.5-inch spacers on all four corners, and while it looks like a monster truck, it's not always the best move for your machine's longevity. Most Can Am owners find that a 1-inch or 1.5-inch can am wheel spacer is the "sweet spot."
When you go too wide, you're putting a lot of extra leverage on your wheel bearings and your steering assembly. Think of it like holding a heavy bucket of water. If you hold it close to your body, it's easy. If you hold it at arm's length, your shoulder starts to burn pretty quick. Your wheel bearings feel the same way. Keeping the spacers to a reasonable thickness gives you the stability and clearance you want without making you change out your bearings every three months.
Material Matters More Than You Think
You're going to see a lot of options when you start shopping. You'll find some that are dirt cheap and others that cost a bit more. The difference is almost always the material and the machining quality. You want to look for spacers made from 6061-T6 billet aluminum. This stuff is used in aircraft for a reason—it's incredibly strong but doesn't add a ton of unsprung weight to your rotating assembly.
The cheap cast aluminum ones? Avoid them like a deep mud hole with no winch. Cast aluminum can have tiny air bubbles or imperfections inside the metal that you can't see. When you hit a rock at 40 mph, those imperfections can turn into cracks, and the last thing you want is a wheel passing you on the trail because your spacer shattered.
The Importance of High-Quality Studs
The spacer itself is just one part of the equation. The studs that come pressed into the can am wheel spacer are what actually hold your wheel on. Cheap spacers often use low-grade steel studs that can stretch or snap under pressure. Look for kits that use grade 10.9 or 12.9 hardware. It's a small detail, but it's the difference between a successful weekend and a very expensive tow back to the trailer.
Hub-Centric vs. Lug-Centric
This is a bit of a technical point, but it's worth knowing. A hub-centric can am wheel spacer is designed to fit perfectly over the center hub of your machine. This means the weight of the vehicle is supported by the hub itself, not just the wheel studs. Lug-centric spacers rely entirely on the studs to center the wheel and carry the load.
For a high-performance machine like a Can Am, hub-centric is usually the way to go. It reduces vibration and ensures that everything is perfectly aligned. If you've ever felt a weird "wobble" at high speeds after installing spacers, there's a good chance they weren't centered perfectly. Hub-centric designs pretty much eliminate that headache.
Let's Talk About the Install
Installing a can am wheel spacer is a pretty straightforward Saturday afternoon project. You don't need a degree in mechanical engineering, but you do need to be meticulous. The biggest tip? Get a torque wrench. Don't just "uuga-duuga" them on with an impact gun and hope for the best.
You'll want to clean your hubs thoroughly with a wire brush first. Any dirt or rust trapped between the hub and the spacer can prevent it from sitting flat, which leads to loose wheels later on. Most guys swear by a little bit of blue Loctite on the studs that hold the spacer to the hub. It gives you that extra peace of mind that nothing is backing out while you're hammering through a whoop section.
Once they're on, don't just forget about them. After your first ride—maybe 20 or 30 miles—get the machine back on the stand and double-check the torque. Things settle, and metal expands and contracts with heat. A quick check can save you a lot of grief.
The Real-World Impact on Handling
It's worth noting that widening your stance changes the "scrub radius" of your steering. In plain English, it might make the steering feel a little heavier or give you a bit more "kickback" through the handlebars or steering wheel when you hit a bump.
Most people get used to it within ten minutes, but it's something to be aware of. If you have power steering (DPS), you probably won't even notice. If you're running an older manual steering model, you might feel a bit more of a workout in the forearms by the end of the day. But again, the trade-off for the added stability is almost always worth it.
Keeping It Clean
One side effect of a can am wheel spacer that people forget is the mud. When you push those tires out past the fenders, they're going to throw everything—mud, rocks, water—straight up into the air. If you don't have fender flares, prepare to get a lot dirtier than usual. It's the price you pay for that aggressive look, but most of us are out there to get dirty anyway, right?
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, adding a can am wheel spacer is one of the most cost-effective ways to change the personality of your machine. It solves the "tippy" feeling, lets you run the tires you actually want, and makes the bike look like the beast it was meant to be.
Just don't cheap out on the parts. Stick with high-quality billet aluminum, check your torque specs, and enjoy the extra confidence the next time you're carving through a tight trail or climbing a steep embankment. Your Can Am is a serious piece of machinery—it deserves parts that can keep up with how you ride.